Saturday, August 31, 2013

THE FUNDAMENTALS OF DISCOVERING BALER


Baler, this 36-square mile capital of Aurora (province) had gone through many significant changes over the past centuries.  A great deal of lives and property had been lost due to calamities and conflicts and for some time had unfairly been overshadowed by the progress of surrounding metropolitan cities.  Nevertheless, Baler prospered in its own timely fashion.  With the impressive fame garnered by Baler’s surfing scene together with the increasing interest towards the myriad of natural attractions, hope definitely springs back to the lives of its citizens.  Before long, Baler will be redefined once more in history to be the precious piece of Philippine territory as it always has been.










BALER TOUR GUIDES AND ACCOMODATIONS:  Taking on travel assistance and admiring an old rustic glamour


In 2007, a sudden increase of tourists began flocking the streets of Baler, Aurora wishing to explore this fascinating part of the country.  Undermanned, the Aurora Tourism Office gathered all the trike drivers operating within and around Baler and trained them to be tour guides.  Not only was the problem cleverly delegated and addressed, trike drivers whose basic earnings were below minimum wage have been provided with additional source of income.

Badges were provided for official appointment and a staple fee of 800.00 Php (for 3-4 persons) was allocated to shoulder expenses, particularly the cost of gas.  Though seemingly expensive, travelers on a budget do get their money’s worth when they acquire the services of these trike/tour guides.  The tour takes up a whole day to complete since it comprises of two parts, the HISTORICAL CITY TOUR and the NATURE RESERVES TRIP.  It is important to note that the natural attractions are located significantly far from each other and pathways leading to these areas are underdeveloped.  Moreover, tourists are not just being transported but TRIKE/TOUR GUIDES do give eloquent and sound information concerning these locations; further enhancing the visitors’ awareness and experience.
  • Basic trike/tour guide fee is 800.00 Php (200.00 Php each for 4 persons)
  • Aurora Tourism Office*, Provincial Compound, Baranggay Suklayin, Baler, Aurora / (+63)921-320-7015
  • Rollymar Ramos, Trike/Tour Guide (+63)939-467-9464 

*Days before coming to Baler, contact the Aurora Tourism Office for the availability of their trike/tour guides.  These guides are officially appointed and monitored for the safety and security of the tourists.



The majority of the local residents have always regarded AMCO BEACH, LODGING, RESTAURANT AND RECREATIONAL CENTER to be one, if not THE oldest tourist retreat in Baler.  This may not necessarily be as false upon seeing its high-pillared entrance, adorned cement railings and an abundance of palm trees decorated around the property; the nostalgic sentiment for this 3-story vacation spot was rather understandable.  The structure appeared to be that of a once swanky estate during the 1930’s where soirées would be held and people arrived in dark colored automobiles and wore tailored suits and shiny tasseled dresses.  The glamour may have faded and the actual state of the resort is a little on the quaint side of things, yet there remained an unorthodox free-spirited charm.  Moreover, in lieu of the typical beachfront scenery (which incidentally, Sabang beach is a mere 5-minute walk away) the clientele is treated to the lot’s valued garden, wide green plains and a winsome little pond.  As such, this lofty property is as perfect to today’s rough and tough backpackers who wish nothing more than a good place for a clean bed and a relaxing bath.
  • Lodging* costs around 950.00 Php a room (good for 2-3 persons), 150.00 Php for additional bed
  • Baranggay Sabang, Baler Aurora 3200 / (+63)939-901-6724 or (+63)939-938-6238

*Those who wish to make reservations would need to deposit a down payment to AMCO’s BDO account.  It is recommended to confirm with AMCO management at least 2-3 days prior travel to Baler of said reservation -- There had been unfortunate occasions where AMCO staff had accidentally overbooked. 




THE HISTORICAL BALER TOUR:  In which we learn of the tragic events of days past and the promising ties and tributes that came after


A historical tour in Baler would not be as proper if it would not be embarked over at the San Luis Obispo de Tolosa Parish or the BALER CATHOLIC CHURCH.  First built in 1611, what took place on this very site was an epic of a struggle known to historians as the Siege of Baler.  Within the very walls of the church, 50 Spanish soldiers along with 4 army officials and a parish priest stood their ground against a battalion of Filipino freedom fighters.  For nearly a year the siege brought much death and destruction.  Ultimately, it all ended in a just and favorable settlement where surviving soldiers surrendered and were permitted to return to Spain. Despite the heavy cost from the siege, a friendship between the Philippines and Spain had blossomed and is still being celebrated here in Baler.
  • The exterior was renovated in 1939 but the original stones are still visible inside the church.
  • An immense period bell, the La Campana De Baler resides within the confines of the church.
  • Engraved foot steps on the church’s walkway lead curious tourists to the next historical site, the Doña Aurora House
  • Rizal Street, Baler, Aurora



Aurora Aragon-Quezon was the wife of the late Philippine President Manual L. Quezon and like her esteemed husband she has always been looked upon as a treasure of Baler.  Her selfless acts were legendary especially among the Baler populace.  An interesting account frequently told by elderly natives describes a young Aurora devoting a part of her family’s house as a makeshift library in which the townsfolk were all welcome to use.  Decades of neglect had made that very house uninhabitable, however with the recognition by the National Historic Institute had prompted the rebuilding and preservation of the DOÑA AURORA HOUSE as a notable Philippine landmark.

  • The house was gravely damaged during the Siege of Baler due to wanton burnings.
  • Inside a glassed expanse just beside the house is a presidential car used by the Quezon family during the 1900’s.
  • Corner of Rizal and San Luis Street, Poblacion, Baler, Aurora




 
To commemorate the Philippine-Spanish peace relations, a joint endeavor by the national and local government was initiated to convert a discarded local administration facility to what is now the MUSEO DE BALERА.  Officially opened in 2003, the museum houses authentic items from the Spanish Galleon Trade such as pottery and crates, letters and documents from the Franciscan missionaries of the very first Baler settlement and portraits of the soldiers (both Spanish and Filipinos) who had been part of the Siege of Baler.  Outside, placed just a few steps from the main path leading to the museum, visitors are received by a rousing bronze statue of the late Philippine president and one of Baler’s prized native, Manuel L. Quezon.
  • There is no entrance fee but a donation box is situated at the lobby for guests who wish to give a small monetary contribution for the museum’s maintenance.
  • A small nipa hut supposedly where President Quezon was born in is exhibited on the museum grounds as well as the presidential car that was once owned by General Douglas MacArthur.
  • Poblacion, Baler, Aurora






WHERE TO EAT IN BALER:  Delicious surprises come in rows and queues


After a day of relaxation and recreation, local surfers and frequent vacationers alike all converge at Baler’s famed ROLLING STORES for tasty value-oriented meals. What used to be a gathering of traveling pushcarts selling packed lunches to the staff of Aurora Memorial Hospital, now are fixed food stalls covering the whole stretch of San Luis Street next to Museo De Baler.  Serving familiar Filipino dishes like Dinuguan, Pinakbet, Mechado and Lechon Paksiw, patrons receive that wonderful home cooked goodness at a price barely noticeable.
  • 1 dish costs around 30 – 50.00 Php
  • San Luis Street, Baler, Aurora
 


For unabashed heavy eating, GERRY SHAN’S PLACE, CHINESE & SEAFOOD CUISINE is unquestionably the ultimate food hangout in Baler.  The restaurant offers a mighty mammoth of a buffet made up of unsophisticated yet downright irresistible Chinese food.  Complimenting this mouthwatering selection is a fresh batch of luscious paco* or fiddlehead (fern), steamed and tossed with slices of tomatoes and salted egg.

  • Buffet costs 180.00 Php (per plate), this includes unlimited iced tea
  • Quezon Street, Baranggay 2, Baler, Aurora Philippines / (+63)939-939-0881

*Paco may be bought (fresh) at the Baler Public Market (near Genesis Terminal) for 15.00-20.00 Php per bundle
 


BALER NATURE RESERVES TRIP:  Exploring the land like treasure hunters and giant killers


Amidst the constant quivering motion, the amount of cracks on the frail old steps and the threatening height for a probable fatal plunge below, town folks still use the HANGING BRIDGE as a convenient means to cross the Tibag-Sabang river.  Constructed in the 1990’s the bridge is composed of long steel cables attached firmly to concrete beams on both sides of the shore while iron mesh, wooden planks and bamboo serve as steps.  The bridge’s current condition may appear intimidating and somewhat unstable, but it has and hopefully will serve its purpose in years to come, effectively and without accident.
  • Baranggay Zabali, Baler, Aurora


Along the national road, pass Ermita Hill and just before Digisit beach is an obscure opening that summons a short ascending hike and rewards the curious to the unspoiled spectacle of the DIGISIT FALLS.  The waters cascade wildly down the hill and spray a brisk mist all around, fashioning a calming secret paradise.  Onlookers are invited to take a dip near the base of the falls, although the waters do tend to rage during heavy rains.
  • Tread very carefully while hiking for some rocks have a smooth slippery surface
  • Baranggay Zabali, Baler, Aurora

 
A nice stroll westward on the soft sands of DIGISIT BEACH ends wonderfully by the craggy cliffs of the LUKSO-LUKSO rock formation where sightseers have a unique opportunity to have a splendid seaside view.  Distances away are the ANIAO ISLETS; three small landmasses perfect for momentary explorations, that is if the tide permits.
  • Beach entrance costs 50.00 Php (per vehicle)
  • Baranggay Zabali, Baler, Aurora
 



On a hillside footing lies a peculiar set of statues: a human chain of men, women and children-folk held together while appearing to climb a sloping mound, away from a violent rush of rising water.  The scene, unsettling as it may, is a piece of Baler’s centuries-old history wherein a colossal wave (known to historians as the Tromba Marina of 1735) engulfed without warning an entire region, bringing unimaginable slaughter.  The statues represent the families who managed to survive by climbing Mount Castillo, or what is popularly known today as ERMITA HILL.  These families, the Angaras, Bijasas, Bitongs, Lumasacs, Carracos, Pobletes not only preserved the precious line of Baler’s legacy but also exemplified the land’s perseverance to strive and grow in times of tragedy and despair.

At the top of Ermita Hill holds a different recollection, but of the same hopeful resonance.  During the early 1500’s, the peak was a lookout point to warn the native townsfolks of advancing marauders.  Once the alarm was sounded, they used a network of tunnels that lead them from their village to the hill, eluding their attackers.  When the Spanish finally made their settlement, the brutal raids ceased and a chapel was built to give the people a symbol of their undying optimism and faith. 
  • There is a long winding stairway from the monument to the top of the hill.  Guests with private or rented vehicles can take a detour from the main highway and to the peak.
  • The park at the center of the peak was later established for gatherings and local events.
  • The park is also a venue for religious pilgrimages.




Time spent at CAUNAYAN FALLS (originally known as El Pimentel falls) is time spent well indeed.  At the tip of the descending steps from the park’s entrance is an ample spot sufficient for picnics while admiring the immaculate setting ahead.  A steady river stream compels a nice relaxing swim and at the same time being showered from the cascading waters by the precipice above.
  • There is a 40.00 Php toll (per vehicle) for entering several private land areas.
  • Entrance to the falls is 10.00 Php (per person)
  • Baranggay Pimentel, San Luis, Aurora





Through uncomfortable gravel road and twisting corners, bestowed to would be seekers the awe-inspiring magnitude of the MILLENIUM TREE, a 600-year old Balete (or Banyan) of pure unchallenged size and mass.  With its protruding dark roots, thick spiraling branches and a lush growth of leaves, this behemoth wood measures a good 60 feet in height; able to carry a whole village of people.  The land in which it resides is privately owned but because of its expanding popularity among travelers, BALETE PARK has been open for public viewing and enjoyment -- Guests are welcome to climb the timbered behemoth with the aid and assistance of its young caretakers.
  • There is no entrance fee but monetary donations are appreciated. 
  • Guides* (for the tree climb) may be hired for a minimum fee of 20.00 Php each.
  • Baranggay Quirino, Maria Aurora, Aurora

*Guides are usually children who use their earnings for their daily school allowance.




Nearly an hour’s worth of foraging into droves of ancient trees, a thick blanket of undergrowth and knee-high brooks of placid water is a priceless thrill in itself.  Nonetheless, seeing the glorious backdrop of the DITUMABO FALLS (also referred as the MOTHER FALLS), after such a journey would be elevated to an epic level of happiness and satisfaction.  The height of this intense body of water is approximated to be 140 feet high and thanks to its constant flow, is being utilized by the Municipality of San Luis to generate sufficient power through a mini hydroelectric power plant.  Weary explorers may swim on the enticing lagoon below the falls.

  • Visitors need to register at the entrance before the trek for safety purposes.
  • There is no entrance fee but monetary donations are appreciated.
  • Baranggay Ditumabo, San Luis, Aurora






Accomplished surfers would fairly prefer the massive combers of CEMENTO BEACH or CHARLIE’S POINT, but for dilettantes and first time dabblers, SABANG BEACH is a good venue for agreeable and more manageable waves.  Soft gray sands, which spread throughout the entire area and break the waters, are excellent cushion for those unexpected wipeouts.  In addition, Sabang Beach has a good supply of surf instructors always ready to impart their knowledge and skills to the eager learner.  As the Baler surfing scene became widely known on a surprising global scale, modern beach resorts along Sabang beach sprouted in numbers, offering a variety of deluxe features and amenities for the modern tourists.
  • 350.00 Php for surfing lessons, 150 – 200.00 Php (per hour) for surfboard rental (There is a half/whole day option for some establishments).
  • Months from October to February are superb for surfing.
  • Baranggay Sabang, Baler, Aurora




GOING TO BALER:  Comfortably riding versus driving comfortably 


Going to Baler by means of PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION:

GENESIS TRANSPORT SERVICE, INC. has consistently been the sole choice for travelers who wish to go to Baler, being the only commercial bus service that provides direct travel from Manila.  Other bus companies would require passengers several transfers at various far off terminals, which may be a more “scenic” course of traveling but remains highly unnecessary.  With Genesis Transport, such bother is favorably avoidable.

There are two options when deciding to ride with Genesis Transport: The regular air-conditioned bus or the executive luxury line aptly named, JOYBUS.  Though the former may be more affordable, the latter does deliver great convenience.  It takes 5-6 hours for regular Genesis bus to get to Baler while Joybus gets there in 4.  Where commuters in a regular bus need to make a great deal of effort for their personal comfort, those riding the Joybus rest easy with reclinable seats and cozy blankets.
  • Single trip via Joybus costs 700.00 Php, single trip via regular air-conditioned bus costs 450.00 Php
  • Joybus passengers need to make advance reservations* (by phone call) and would require depositing full payment to Genesis Transport’s BDO account.
  • Genesis Cubao Terminal - 704 EDSA corner New York Street, Baranggay E. Rodriguez Sr., Cubao, Quezon City / (+63)2-709-0545 or (+63)2-441-68-34
  • Baler Terminal – Baranggay Sabang, Baler, Aurora / (+63)919-650-6997 or (+63)917-311-59-45

*After securing seats for the Manila-Baler trip, immediately contact the Genesis Transport Baler Terminal to make arrangements for the journey back -- Slots tend to be filled fast, even on off-season.

Going to Baler by means of PRIVATE VEHICLE:

Taking on the road to Baler is an adventure already.  Having to face mind-numbing traffic, scores of troublesome potholes and nerve-wracking twisted roads of death, the journey is a true test of one’s grit and stamina.  Both a navigator and tactician, the modern driver adheres to his or her own discipline and instinct -- Never faltering and loyal to the belief that in due course, may it be as swift or time-consuming, the challenge will be met and destination reached.

Personal gratifications aside, there are other advantages to driving to Baler: Inviting landscapes and unique locales along the way would surely excite the compulsive shutterbug, roadside food junctions can be sampled and enjoyed by the insatiable and liberal of taste, and smokers have the opportunity to stop and savor the experience without having to multitask or even worry about road ordinances.

With the perpetual development of public works, several routes going to Baler are now accessible to all motorists. Certain factors like the weather may influence its efficiency and success, but it is still up to driver’s adaptability and keen sense of direction that will make it all work flawlessly; if not interestingly.  Presented below are two routes for everyone’s consideration:

Route 1: From NLEX to Pantabangan-Canili-Basal-Baler Road
Estimated travel time: 6 hours*
  1. Take the North Expressway (NLEX) from Balintawak.
  2. Exit at Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and ride the whole stretch until the very end which is in Amucao, Tarlac
  3. Make a right taking the Santa Rosa – Tarlac Road, heading off pass La Paz and to Sta. Rosa, Nueva Ecija.  Prepare to turn upon passing the Santa Rosa Bridge.
  4. Turn left going to Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija (On the left side of the road will be a Manson Drugstore). This is now the Pan-Philippine / Maharlika Highway.
  5.  Follow highway till it forks in Pinagpanaan, Nueva Ecija.  Turn right going to Rizal (Pinagpanaan-Rizal-Pantabangan Road).
  6. At what appears to be the end of the highway, turn right (There is a GT Oil Gas Station on the left side of the road) and then left at Agaran Street.  This is the Pantabangan-Canili-Basal-Baler Road.
  7. The stretch of the highway is utterly long, passing Sierra Madre and eventually leads to Maria Aurora, Aurora.  Important Reminder:  Drive with extreme caution since the roads tend to zigzag and landslides do occur during heavy rains.
  8. Still on the same route, passing Maria Aurora Public Market, the highway will again fork -- Turn left and straight to Baler.

*Travel time is purely a rough assessment based on prior experience(s).  Road conditions, traffic and weather may affect duration of trip.

Route 2: From NLEX to Nueva Ecija-Aurora Highway
Estimated travel time: 4-5 hours*
  1. Take the North Expressway (NLEX) from Balintawak.
  2. Exit at Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and ride the whole stretch until the very end which is in Amucao, Tarlac
  3. Make a right taking the Santa Rosa – Tarlac Road, heading off pass La Paz and to Sta. Rosa, Nueva Ecija.  Prepare to turn upon passing the Santa Rosa Bridge.
  4. Turn left going to Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija (On the left side of the road will be a Manson Drugstore). This is now the Pan-Philippine / Maharlika Highway.
  5. Continue to go straight and upon passing Burgos Avenue and Burgos Extension, prepare to make a right towards the Nueva Ecija-Aurora Highway.  As reference, there is Shell gas station and NE Restaurant at the intersection.
  6. Nueva Ecija-Aurora Highway passes through towns of Talavera, Rizal, and Pantabangan (all municipalities of Nueva Ecija) and on to the border of Aurora Province.  Important Reminder:  This route will still pass Sierra Madre.  Drive with extreme caution since the roads tend to zigzag and landslides do occur during heavy rains.
  7. Go straight pass the towns of Maria Aurora and San Luis, Aurora until arriving at Baler.

*Travel time is purely a rough assessment based on prior experience(s).  Road conditions, traffic and weather may affect duration of trip.


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